Lewis & Clark College

We reach’d Madeira on the first of April, and supplied ourselves with many Necessaries, the Price of which we knew would be enhanc’d by the Arrival of the Fleet. Three Days after us the Hyæna Frigate arriv’d, who separated the same Time with us & and the 5th day the Admiral and all the Fleet arriv’d, & we lay there together till the 25th of April when the Fleet being supplied with what necessaries they wanted, we sail’d in Company with the whole Fleet. The Admiral steer’d for the Coast of Africa, and on the 8th of May we sail’d round Cape de Verd, and work’d into Goree Bay. Here we expected to have been opposed by the French and accordingly the Admiral made the Disposition for an Attack, but we were Surprised by seeing english Colours hoisted for the French apprehensive of having a visit paid them by some english Ships, had retir’d from this Island to Senegal a Town situate on the River Gambia, about 2[?] Miles to the NE. of which they had taken Possession & carried thither the principal Part of their Effects. Four small vessels were then in the Bay with their third [end page 22]

teries, upon some of which are large Cannon. At a little more than a Cable’s length from the Island, is a square Rock, the irregular Interstices of which, are filled up, and a pretty strong Battery erected on it. When it blows hard from the Sea, small vessels retreat behind this Rock & are in smooth Water. They call it the Lee Rock. There is likewise an old Castle situate on an Eminence at the South End of the Town, but I believe there are no Guns in it. They have a Play House on the Island and a Company of Performers, who during our stay there performd several Operas, but – – – –

“Harsh was the Voice, th unmodulated Tongue
in sounds discordant Cupid’s Empire sung” – —

There are several Monasteries on the Island, but poorly indow’d; those I visited, were full of a set of pitiable wretches, none Younger than thirty, seemingly no more sensible of the Embarassment of their Situations, than a confin’d Brute. There was nothing in their Faces which bespoke Sensibility, Joy, or Sorrow . . . . . [end page 21]

Practices, You would expect a different Treatment from their Appearance, no Shoe, or Peruke maker appearing abroad without his Bag Wig and Sword. They are base and groveling in their Servitiude, affected in their outward Behaviour and jealous & vindictive in their Hearts. . . . .
The Streets of Funchall are pitted with sharp stones, [illegible] are very troublesome to a Stranger. The stoutest Person not Accustomed to that Kind of Walking would soon be lamed by them. Yet the Inhabitants do not regard them, and the Horses gallop over them without perceiving an Inconvenience. . A Surf generally beats on the Beach opposite the Town & incommodes the Landing, wherefore People generally go to a Place some distance from the Town where are Stairs cut in a Rock. But Boats with Goods, Water, Provisions etc. must come to & go off from the Beach, where they are sometimes overset. European Boats never go there; the Portuguese have strong ones built on Purpose. The Military Force on the Island is trifling; It is (I think) garrison’d with Five Hundred Men. They have several Bat= [end page 20]

other emblematical Ornaments are bestowed on all three of them. The other Part of the Church is open for the performance of Acts of Devotion, Confession, etc. They have no Churchyard except the consecrated pavement beforementioned. They bury chiefly in Churches, adjoining to each of which is a Bonehouse Whither the Bodies are carried after lying a few days, to make room for others, who would otherwise too much crowd the Church. The most commodious Building here is the Jesuits’ College, consecrated since the Abolition of that Order amongst the Portuguese into dwelling Houses etc. There are few Portuguese People of Property on the Island, English Merchants who have been settled here many Years, seem to have every thing in their Power except Religion . . Fish used to be carried thither before the commencement of the American War but that Trade being obstructed, the poor portuguese who scarcely eat anything else are inconceivably distrest. No Country or People said to be civilized, bear or deserve a worse Character than the Portuguese natives of Madeira; Whether owing to Tuition or Instinct I cannot tell but true it is that no Country extends them in Thievery or other Knavish [end page 19]

Oranges and Lemons on their native Trees, interspers’d with Shrubs and Flowers; the Whole wears a diversified Fare of unequal variety. They have very fine Springs of Water issuing from the Mountains said to excell any in the World. The town of Funchall is capacious, but irregularly built; all the Streets except one or Two disagreeably narrow. Their Buildings are old and wretched. There are several Churches of which that consecrated to St Antonio is the best, both with respect to Size and Ornamental Possessions. It stands on a Square Piece of Ground, in the Middle of the principal street without any Wall or Pallisadoes round it; & only a Pavement of broad Stones extending a few feet round [illegible] & the same with all their Churches to distinguish them from any other building. The Body of St. Antonio’s Church contains three Altars, each of which are pretty well ornamented, and instill a Kind of sacred Awe, even whilst we abhor the Superstition of their Adorers. These Altars form three Sides of a Square. On one of them before the Image of Christ are Wax Tapers many Inches in Diameter, & several smaller ones before Saints According to their respective Degrees of Elevation. Many [end page 18]

The Merchants mix it together in their Wine Vaults according to the Quality of each Skin. It is a very difficult Matter to get genuine Madeira, it being a general Custom to Adulterate it even on the Island, with a Spirit distill’d there from the Vine Stalks call’d by the Portuguese Argodent; And if we consider the Changes it passes thro’ in England, we may conclude that but a small portion of Madeira comes under that Title. Their Vineyards have a very agreeable Appearance, And the Island in general exhibits a very romantic one. The Tops of some of the Mountains are almost inaccessible, yet they say there are Wild Hogs which make them their Constant Residence. Madeira does not abound in a great Vanity of Beasts, I heard of no wild ones except the Hog. Their Horses are remarkably small, & so sure footed, that they climb up the Hills with surprizing Celerity. The Beasts for Provision are as in other Countries, but not in great Plenty and poor. The delectable Situation of this Island admits the Growth of any vegetable or Fruit of other Countries and in excellent Perfection. The english Merchants’ Gardens are delightful and to a Native of a more northern Latitude they appear redoubly so. Here are Walks lined with Myrtle and large Groves and Bowers of that Tree, enchanting to the Eye. [end page 17]

The Island of Madeira lies in Lat. 32•20 N Long is about seventeen Leagues long & nine broad. It has seven Small Bays & Harbours but Ships generally lie in Funchal Roads, a very unsafe Place in some certain Seasons of the Year, when it blows hard upon the Land. The Island is mountainous and rocky having but a very superficial Station of Mould, yet is generally Cover’d with verdure. From the deficiency of Mould, the Island cannot be imagind to produce Grain in large Quantities, tho’ there are some Parts, different from the rest, which yield tolerable Crops of Wheat, Barley, Peases, Beans and a Kind of Lentil for the Cattle. But the principal production of the Island, & what alone renders it an Object of Attention is the very excellent Wine, which grows on every Part of it. True, Unadulterated Madeira Wine, is an excellent Cordial very far superior to any Wine produced in any of the Canary or Cape de Verd Islands. Contrary to almost all other Kinds of Wine it improves by Heat & and has been recovered after being Almost Vinegar by exposing the Cask to the Sun. None of the Merchants who sell it at Madeira possess plantations on the Island; it is produced in the Vineyards of poor People in small Quantities and brought to Town in dried Hog Skins. [end page 14]

miserable Existence indeed, and the unfortunate Innocent who falls a Victim to the Bareness of Prejudice, the Incapacity of Judgement or the Caprice of a malicious Magistrate must most severely feel the Horrors around him. There is not even room for Contemplation or Study, the menacing Aspect of the Rocks striking the Soul Aghast with Horror, and the perpetual Gloom denouncing it the residence of Death. The Wretch who with difficulty escapes the cruel Inquisition to be sent here, has but little good Fortune to boast. Tis true he preserves his Life, but every sublunary Enjoyment is alienated from his Situation … We were becalm’d off these Islands and could not reach Madeira tho but a short Distance from it, till the next Day, when we came to an Anchor in Funchale Roads on the South West Side of the Island . . We roll’d prodigiously going in, there being a great Swell, And carried away our Fore Top Mast, & came to an Anchor, with it down. We found lying here The Tiger Privateer of Bristol, And a West Indiaman who had a Letter of Marque, but none of our Fleet had yet Arriv’d. The Glasgow Frigate came in a few Days after us … [end page 13]

THE DESERTERS

Bearing SSE 4 Leagues. Latitude 32º • 36' N Longitude

PORTO SANCTO

Bearing SbW. 3 Leagues. Latitude 32º • 50' N. Longitude W

Evening when we were reducing things to their proper Order, & thinking ourselves secure for that Night, another Sail would appear, and put us again in the same Embarrassment. This Scene was continued till we arriv’d in sight of Porto Santo, an island belonging to the Portuguese situate on Lat ___ Long. ___ This island appears like a Number of Pyramids rising in oblique directions, each terminating in an almost Acute Apex. It was formerly barren, but is now in some Parts fertile & cover’d with a pleasant verdure. Several of the Inhabitants of Madeira, have Plantations here which produce Grapes, Figs, and all the tropical Fruits. Within Sight of this Island are several others all very contiguous, call’d the Deserters; each of which appears to be an entire Rock void of Soil or Inhabitants, but on our arrival at Madeira from which they may be plainly seen, we were inform’d that those Islands are made a kind of Habitation, for those Criminals, whose Offences not meriting death, doom them to be transported hither for Life, or an appointed Term of Years. One Part of them is habitable, & that they cultivate with utensils given them for that Purpose & sow a Quantity of Grain, with which they are supplied when put on Shore according to the Heinousness of their crimes. This must be a [end page 10]

People, who under the Mask of Neutrality, drain the world of its wealth, & accumulate to themselves an Immensity of Riches, whilst other Kingdoms are wantonly disporting with the Lives and Properties of their Inhabitants. These vessels generally go unarm’d to any Part of the Globe, the Dutch having Artifice enough to extricate themselves from any Kind of difficulty which may happen … After having separated ten days, we had a little Engagement with a small Brig Privateer, which afterwards prov’d to be english. The Captain of her show’d himself that Day to be a brave Man, by engaging a Ship, really of Force much superior to himself (and apparently still greater). She mounted Sixteen, six & four pounders, and carried fifty five Men, to whom, upon seeing us, the Captain remonstrated on the Improbability of Success; but they turning a deaf Ear on his Harangue, he made a courageous resolution to bear down, & if we prov’d an Enemy, take us or sink by our Side … Amid all this Prospect of danger, the daily Confusion which reign’d in the Ship is undescribable. Upon seeing a sail which was generally at Day Light, the Officers Cabins were all knocked down with their Chests, Trunks & Baggage and Hammocks & Cots carried upon Deck. Perhaps by the [end page 9]

such a Position as to prevent us from bringing our Guns to bear upon her. In this Dilemma we had one Circumstance to console ourselves with viz. the having such a Number of Soldiers on board, that would have dealt destruction to a vessel that might have attempted to board us, a Method much depended on by small Privateers The Soldiers were station’d on every Part of the Ship, and if a small vessel appear’d they conceal’d themselves, by lying flat on the Deck till within Musquet Shot, but on the Contrary if a Ship of Force superior to ourselves came in Sight, we station’d the redcoats so that they might be seen at a considerable Distance, hoisted a Man of War’s pendant, and fix’d wooden Guns, so as to make us appear like a fifty Gun Ship. Indeed we cut a very formidable Figure. We parted from the Fleet in the direct Track of the Cruizers, and for several Days after our Separation had very little Wind, and that little, foul; At last a fair and fresh Breeze sprung up, which carried us along briskly. We now daily saw a Number of Vessels, which we brought too, & most of them proved to be dutch. Here we had an Oportunity of observing the cunning & policy of those [end page 8]

having taken a vast Number of their Martinique, St Domingo and other West Indiamen, with seven or eight very valuable East Indiamen, to revenge which, it was reported & not without gaining Credit, that they had collected a pow’rful Fleet to intercept us in our Passage. This Scheme might have been easily effected, & if attended with Success (as the Weather was very favourable for a Cruizer in the Bay) would not only have procur’d them Honour, but have amply repaid their numerous Losses. In the Chops of the Channell we fell in with the Courageux, Lord Mulgrave, on a Cruize, who join’d, & proceeded with the Fleet. We pursued our Course without Interruption or Loss of any Part of the Fleet, for A Week; At the End of which we parted from our Convoy in a Fog, & was left a single, comparatively defenceless Ship, which would have fall’n a prey to a frigate, or almost any Adventrous Privateer. The Perturbation we were in is not easily to be described, since we had Nothing to expect but a Visit to France. Our Ship carried Twenty, nine Pounders on the Gun-Deck, and six, four pounders on the Quarter Deck, but then we were so deep and unwieldy, that a swiftsailing light Ship, might easily have Kept in [end page 7]

a numerous Train of assailing Evils; immediately on his return to England, before he has seen his relations or even had an Oportunity of informing them of his return, he is dragg’d from his Ship perhaps emaciated by disease, and confined to the Hold of one of his Majesty’s Tenders, there to reexperience the shocking miseries he flatter’d himself he was freed from. Happy would it be for those Men, and for the Navy, and Kingdom in general, could some Expedient be hit on to man his Majestys Navy in a more respectable Manner, and explode a Practice disgraceful to the Service and shocking to Humanity.) There were likewise on board two Companies of the 73rd Regt of Foot or Sd. M[?]sends Highlanders, and twenty five of the Company’s Recruits, who were all (except the Officers) stowed on the Orlope Deck; betwixt the after part of the after & fore part of the fore Hatchway. So that with those before mention’d, and nine Passengers the Ship was uncommonly crouded. We had a continual fair Wind & fine Weather till we got clear of the Land, which was three Days after our Sailing. At this Time Hostilities were eagerly carried on betwixt England, & France by Sea, and with great success on our side; our Cruizers [end page 6]

The Duke of Grafton, East Indiaman. Captn Saml. Bull Commander, left Portsmouth on Sunday the 7th of March 1779 with Twelve other Indiamen, under the convoy of Sir Edwd Hughes Knt. in the Superbe 74 Gunship & eight Men of War and sloops, Transports & other vessels to the number of Forty sail or upwards. We proceeded down Channel with a fair wind to Plymouth, off which place we were joined by the Belleisle Man of War, and the Nymph sloop of Eighteen Guns, which latter had been dispatched from Portsmouth a few days before, to acquaint the Belleisle of the Admiral’s Intention to sail speedily. The Grafton was very deeply laden, having been freighted considerably beyond her Tonnage. Her ship’s company consisted of 120 men for the most part Landsmen many of whom had never before seen the Sea. People unacquainted with those affairs would wonder, why so easy a Service, where there is more Pay, and less danger than in the Navy, should be so destitute of good Seamen, but they must be inform’d that after a man in the capacity of a common sailor on board an Indiaman has been absent from his native country and Friends for the space of two or perhaps three Years, when he has overcome the Dangers of the Sea, a long Voyage, the Scurvy, Inclemencies of foreign climates, and [end page 5]

A Voyage to the East Indies in the Ship Duke of Grafton

I do not know the history of this book, but think I recollect my father saying it was a record kept by one of the Pierce family of his voyage to India in 1779. I have read it but do not find any name or reference giving a clue. It is interesting as showing the hardships endured by travellers in those days, now over 150 years ago.
J.M.O–
16/9/[?]1

Note:-
Richard Pierce left England in Command of the H.E.I. Coy’s “Halsewell,” in 1779. See page 128 of “East Indiamen The East India Coy’s Maritime Service,” by Sir Evan Cotton (1949)
–––– . . . ––––
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Master Mariner
Re[??]